All rights reserved. In 1977 she left Messner and went to Munich. This happens in the "death zone," above around 23,000 feet. The brothers reached the summit late in the afternoon and shook hands, as they always did. Part of the conflict was a culture clash: South Tyroleans aren't as regimented as Germans from the fatherland. Each of us carried his own sleeping bag and tent, and porters carried the rest, until the highest camp, when we were on our own. Perhaps their disagreement was not so surprising: we are all the heroes of our own novels, after all. According to von Kienlin and other expedition members, Günther always carried a heavier load than Reinhold and set up their tent and cooked for him. Siegfried Messner: Südtiroler Volkspartei Pietro Mitolo: Movimento Sociale Italiano - Destra Nazionale: Luigi Montali: ... September 1985 durch Arnold Tribus ersetzt. "Where is Günther?" It was this appeal, von Kienlin says, that prompted him to write his book. Gnther è ancora lassù, sepolto sotto chissà quanti metri di neve e di ghiaccio. He was in superb condition, from running for hours at a time up alpine meadows and practicing moves on a ruined building in St. Peter, the little village in the Dolomite mountains of Northern Italy where he lived. One of the entries recorded that Reinhold, when he finally met up with the rest of the expedition, had frantically shouted to von Kienlin, "Where's Günther?" "But there was no plan to do the traverse," Messner assured me. Günther was very strong, but his rock climbing was not at the Spider-Man level of Reinhold's. He gave me the latest edition of his book, from which contested passages had been removed by court order. Messner was able to move so quickly because he climbed alone, alpine-style—meaning he took only a rucksack. Von Kienlin's publisher was ordered to remove from the second edition of his book 13 of 21 passages to which Messner had objected, including his alleged remark about not wanting to miss "the opportunity to make this traverse.". With more than 600,000 members, the German Alpine Club is the largest organization of its kind in the world and a bastion of conservatism and "good German values." In German libel law, if you state something as fact that negatively impacts someone, you have to prove that it is true. And I had once been in a situation very similar to that of the Messners, in which we had no alternative but to go down a different face of a mountain in Switzerland, To me, Reinhold's account of what happened on Nanga made perfect sense. "If this is a forgery, Max, it's a very good one," I said, and he laughed. I'm not going to let my brother take all the glory this time," says Demeter, "it was a spontaneous reaction but a beautiful one. In der Regionalregierung fungierte Messner bis 1996 erneut als Assessor für Grundbuch- und Katasterwesen. When Günther asked for a two-month leave of absence to go on the expedition, the bank wouldn't give it to him, so he gave his notice. It is about the death of a young man, friend, and comrade." Then they would pay their respects at the Chörten, a pyramidal Tibetan shrine where Reinhold placed his brother's ashes. The Alpine Museum, in Munich, hosted a big party for both von Kienlin's and Saler's books. "But this is not a world-political question. "Reinhold went up on the glaciers, and he did not come back and he did not come back and there were avalanches coming all day long," Demeter told me. The breakup with Demeter was like an emotional evisceration for Messner—the most traumatic event in his life after Günther's disappearance. Demeter went on to marry a textile designer named Peter Seipelt, and they were helping Reinhold put together his mountain museum. And Messner was knicking off with one of their wives. Instinct forces you down. His father's people have lived in Villnöss for generations, and half the people in the valley are called Messner. Maybe we should all undergo a little oxygen deprivation. Quando li ha visti al sicuro, ai piedi della parete, si è accinto a scendere anche lui assieme al suo ultimo cliente. Von Kienlin had not been one of Herrligkoffer's climbers. He's crazy," a local barfly would say, and Joseph would tell him, "You wait and see." Two years earlier, he'd gotten their attention on a group expedition to the vertiginous granite Aiguilles of the Mont Blanc range, in the Alps. (Messner vehemently denies this.) The local newspapers called him a Heimatverräter (a traitor to his homeland) and a Nestbeschmutzer (someone who besmirches his own nest). "I left him because he was a man-eater," Demeter explained. In essence, Messner was being accused of fratricide. In May 1970, the expedition's 22 climbers and their teams of high-altitude porters began working their way up the Rupal Face, setting up tent camps along the way. It is the logical consequence if someone thinks. To understand what this was really all about, Messner explained, I had to go back to the Nanga Parbat expedition that the German Alpine Club sponsored in 1934. After that, von Kienlin said, "I wrote on loose sheets, even napkins." Most of his old climbing companions are either dead or eking out a living by guiding, or repairing roofs. It was a commanding performance. Alex Shoumatoff was a fanatical rock climber in his youth, having scaled mountains in the Swiss Alps and Grand Teton by the age of 16. In the expedition's aftermath, when Herrligkoffer started to attack Messner, von Kienlin was Messner's biggest defender.


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